Cars House

SO I have read all the threads I can find, the installation instructions, and various individual webpages on the TBI installation...


Is there anything that I should know before I tear into it that is harder than it looks from the instructions? Anything I should be prepared for?
jRations magazine published an article in their issue #8 (about last September, they don't use months), entitles "The Finer Points of EFI Installation", it covered things the Howell instructions don't really cover, like little bits and odds and ends you'll need to finish it up nicely; making sure EGR, Evap and the manifold heater still work; and options for air cleaners. Back issues are available for $6.95: http://store.jrations.com/

Jeff
Thanks Jeff...I just picked that issue up.

Unfortunately, I want to start this weekend, and it looks like the issue won't get here for 2-4 weeks, but I guess it'll help me go through and make sure it was done right.
Sent you a PM.
Anyone know where I can get an external Tach?

Since my jeep didn't come with a factory tach, I am going to have trouble setting the idle after I get the TBI installed...

Is this something I can play by ear, or should it be exact?

Also, do I set the idle first, or set the timing first?
Anyone know where I can get an external Tach?

Since my jeep didn't come with a factory tach, I am going to have trouble setting the idle after I get the TBI installed...

Is this something I can play by ear, or should it be exact?

Also, do I set the idle first, or set the timing first?

Set the timing. From the Howell manual:

"There are no idle speed or air fuel ratio adjustments on the Howell EFI kits. Only initial spark timing is adjustable. Our recommended setting for good emissions and driveability is 6-8 degrees BTDC, at idle with vacuum advance disconnected. This setting is higher than the original OEM recommendation. "

Maybe you can find a cheap tach/dwell meter at Autozone, I don't know if they even sell them anymore it has been so long since I've used one :-)

Or, if you want to be high-tech, you can check your RPM's (and many other engine parameters) with freeware WinALDL software and your laptop. http://winaldl.joby.se/. I use it with my Howell setup. Works very well.

Jeff
I ripped out all of the things I am supposed to rip out, and I am waiting for my RTV to dry on the throttle body adapter before I pull my manifold (is that hard?) to replace the gasket since I am pretty sure it's leaking and I'm in there anyway.

So my real question is regarding the Upstream check valve and Downstream check valve...

After I remove all the hoses and valves there are still the hard lines, one to the exhaust, and one to the cat... Do those just sit there open, or do I cut them off and pulg them?




Also can't wait to get to the wiring tomorrow...There's so many wires just hanging there disconnected that I am surprised my jeep ever ran so well before...can't wait to clean em all out.


And special Thanks to JRations magazine backorders..That article was extremely helpful!
I ripped out all of the things I am supposed to rip out, and I am waiting for my RTV to dry on the throttle body adapter before I pull my manifold (is that hard?) to replace the gasket since I am pretty sure it's leaking and I'm in there anyway.

So my real question is regarding the Upstream check valve and Downstream check valve...

After I remove all the hoses and valves there are still the hard lines, one to the exhaust, and one to the cat... Do those just sit there open, or do I cut them off and pulg them?




Also can't wait to get to the wiring tomorrow...There's so many wires just hanging there disconnected that I am surprised my jeep ever ran so well before...can't wait to clean em all out.


And special Thanks to JRations magazine backorders..That article was extremely helpful!

Hello Blue 83 I just finished my howell install you take the up the stream and down stream tubes off i cut them off short then bent over and pinched with vice grips you wont need them.
What a rough two days...Last night I removed my carter and a bunch of vacuum stuff, and today I have been removing my intake and exhaust manifolds to change the gasket that was a huge mess.

So I now have everything bolted back up, all items removed as per the instructions, TBI installed, Fuel Pump installed, old computer removed, and all I have left is the wiring. I have the whole harness cut open and sitting on my intake.


Now what do I do with this mess??? It looks like the PO was into the harness before, and there are a ton of poor splices all over the place, and I hope they are going to be removed.

Anyway, questions are:

1. On the passenger fender there's the old diagnostic ports...Remove all these wires?

2. I know I have read that all wires go, but can I really rip everything out that runs from the old computer harness and from the diagnostic pins?

Basically the only wires that should remain are as shown in the howell ignition diagram from the Ignition MOdule to the Dizzy and the coil and the other 3 wires they call out (temperature-sending unit, manifold heater and manifold heater switch/relay)


I keep taking breaks and going back to look at it, but it's a freiking mess and i am so lost...
So if all that junk can come out, I think my only new question might be:

What is this connecter on the bottom right? It was connected to something on or near the carb (can't remember, but if it was the carb, guessing it should go), then to a relay, and then to the coil... Can I just pull the whole thing?

http://lh6.google.com/bill.levien/R8n3tCk8g2I/AAAAAAAAC-o/wRy0etSuQJ4/s800/DSC00699.JPG
:bump:



If nobody knows or I don't get a response by 9 am california time, I am cutting all the wires...:confused:

BTW, thanks JScherb and CJ72000 for your help this far.
Here ya go, this is the set-up I am running for my Howell.
You'll want to send me both pieces of that 6 pin connector with at least 12" of wire on both sides.
I had done a write up on this a while back. Trace your old computer wires back to firewall, oil pressure switch, back up, trans, and re-wire from location. It's been a while.
Keep in mind that this is for an HEI set up, not the duracrap.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p261/Fatman_CJ7/schematics/EFI-HOWELL-WIRE-1.jpg

Manifold heater circuit, thanks to John S. :
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p261/Fatman_CJ7/schematics/ElectricChoke.jpg

Here's your Vac routing:
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p261/Fatman_CJ7/schematics/nonegr-cto-vac1.jpg
Thanks Fatman, that should really help...I can't really read the notes on the full wiring diagram, but it help to visually seperate the main harness and what needs to stay other than the howell harness.

Do you really need that connector? If I don't need it, I have no problem sending it to you if you PM me your address.

Anyone need anything else I removed? Air cleaner, Old computer, Carter BBD, vacuum junk...takers?
Alright, here's where I am at...

I cut the old harness and diagnostic ports out, and started eliminating wires. The PO has so many splices in there, mostly coming from that 6 port pin that fatman wants.

I have been trying to dechipher what is necessary from Fatman's diagram and the stock electrical diagram in the Haynes manual, but I am not 100% sure what must remain in order for everything to work and there's some stuff I can't read on the diagram...Does anyone have a clearer image?

I guess what I need to know ( I think?) is what wires do I NEED coming off of my starter solenoid, coil, and the firewall connecter?