Cars House

i am converting my cj brakes to yj with the booster. i have to bend the orriginal lines to go to the opposite side of the master, yj lines hook up on opposite side, any suggestions or tips on how to bend these around without kinking them? i know alot of people on here have done the conversion, any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
You can get a bender at just about any parts store for a few bucks!
Best way to bend lines are to use a tube bender and flare tool, very cheap to buy and it won't kink the lines. I do all my own lines verse buying pre bent lines. Any autoparts store should have them. Just make sure you put the fitting on the right way before you flare them.
Be VERY careeful in bending your lines. If you have the factory air cleaner housing then you may have a hard time getting clearence for the lines to fit in. I had to go with a small aftermarket air filter because when I bent the lines to the passenger side (which the YJ cylinders are located) I had no room. I also kinked one of the lines and had to remake my own because the fittings on both sides of the brake line (1 for the prop valve and one for the MC) are an odd combination of thread count and I had to buy two different lines with the correct fittings then cut them both to swap the fittings and re-flare to make one correct brake line.

^ I hope you understood all of that ^

Bottom line it was a PITA.
Auto parts or plumbing supply stores sell coil spring pipe benders. These 'can' be put on the line in the center with some patience by screwing the spring onto the line, something like putting a key ring on, so you don't have to mess with the fitting end.

Or you might try a full can of soup or tomatoes (different sizes) and lay the line against it, then slowly bend the line against the can. Holding the wire steady at the can, then rolling the can, vs bending the wire over the can, works best. If you are careful, this works well.

One caution, if the line is the least bit corroded, it can and likely will crack instead of bending because the metal crystallizes. This crack might not leak, but can blow out under emergency braking at a later time.
Be VERY careeful in bending your lines. If you have the factory air cleaner housing then you may have a hard time getting clearence for the lines to fit in. I had to go with a small aftermarket air filter because when I bent the lines to the passenger side (which the YJ cylinders are located) I had no room. I also kinked one of the lines and had to remake my own because the fittings on both sides of the brake line (1 for the prop valve and one for the MC) are an odd combination of thread count and I had to buy two different lines with the correct fittings then cut them both to swap the fittings and re-flare to make one correct brake line.

^ I hope you understood all of that ^

Bottom line it was a PITA.

Correct me if I'm wrong but, the YJ connections are on the driver side of the master cylinder and the stock CJ lines are on the passenger side of the MC.
benders are not all the same I can bend 3/16 line to the radius of a quarter with my bender
Correct me if I'm wrong but, the YJ connections are on the driver side of the master cylinder and the stock CJ lines are on the passenger side of the MC.


You are corrected. The YJ lines are on the passenger side and the CJ are on the driver side.
benders are not all the same I can bend 3/16 line to the radius of a quarter with my bender

What type of bender do you have fuzz?

Brand new 3/16" lines are very easy to bend, even by hand. However old factory lines can be a real PITA. Before you know it you will be putting a lot of new lines on if you have to remove that prop valve to get the fittings to turn.
What type of bender do you have fuzz?

Brand new 3/16" lines are very easy to bend, even by hand. However old factory lines can be a real PITA. Before you know it you will be putting a lot of new lines on if you have to remove that prop valve to get the fittings to turn.

Here is a trick I use. If I am replacing a line like the one to the prop valve and the fitting is not cooperating, I just snip the line at the fitting and use a socket wrench with a fitted or 6 sided socket on it, not a 12 point. The line is already garbage I figure.
I have the weather head benders
http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=42/category_id=70/home_id=70/mode=prod/prd42.htm
I did not use a bender. I just unwound some of the coiled tubing by hand. It was no problem. I think that the write up even said that you could do it by hand. http://www.bustedjeep.com/projects/yjbrakes.asp
I always do my bending by hand, and I've done all the lines on my Cj and most on my truck. I've never kinked one. Its real easy to do by hand so long as you don't try tiny radius' and take your time.
You are corrected. The YJ lines are on the passenger side and the CJ are on the driver side.

I must be misunderstanding what you're saying...

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh266/tsujeeper/DSC00874.jpg
I must be misunderstanding what you're saying...

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh266/tsujeeper/DSC00874.jpg

Ahhh, I think you have the 95, which was the dual diaphram...if Im not mistaking. I am 100% certain that my YJ booster has the fittings on the passenger side.

Also, below is a picture taken from bustedjeep.com, who was the originator of the swap. Theirs is on the passenger side too...

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u191/jeremy_and_natasha/brakeline2.jpg
Yes it is a 95 dual diaphragm. I was unaware they switched. I've got a regular YJ booster sitting on the shelf in the garage, I just never noticed the difference.