Home-Waggy 44 CJ7 SOA not outboarded

Waggy 44 CJ7 SOA not outboarded

new info posted i need some advice Please

1980 cj7 SOA ...I recently scored a 78 waggy dana44( turned out to be 74) and want to slap it under the front end...I know I could outboard the springs But I am wanting to know if anyone has swapped this w/o outboarding the springs. I know the inner c has to be cut , housing trimmed and new axle shaft made ( long side).


irrelevant now..... 1. what kind of money are we talking for a new shaft made
non issue now......... 2.If I convert the hub back to 5x5.5 can I use the waggy stubby shafts?
sending to John Nutter 3. Steering without flattop knuckles???
got it they are 30 spline 4.last are all the internals ie carriers the same spline count?

thanks...
I have not done this, however I have been researching the heck out of it. I am also working with a 78 waggy front (decided to outboard personally)

1) Depends - could have Moser respline for $65 - plus $15-$20 for the ride each way. This would bring your total up to around $100. Or, you could have a custom shaft made which should run you around $200 plus shipping. Advantage would be that it is boatloads stronger.

2) Chevy small spindles and Ford outers. The Waggy front started using large spindles in 76 I believe. Not condusive to swapping outers for 5x5.5

3) It steered just fine w/o them originally, but if you are converting the hubs anyways why not get flat tops and be done with any of your steering problems in one shot. I guess a custom Z-link would work, but not advisable.

4) 30 spline. Same as 90% of the D44's out there (there are a few 33 spline versions. Forget what they were found in. XJ's mabye???)
Look I know there are a bunch of threads on this topic but.....They are not specific and always turn into well I would.....or I think you can..... I would like to hear from some people who have actually DONE this to their rigs..

1980 cj7 SOA ...I recently scored a 78 waggy dana44 and want to slap it under the front end...I know I could outboard the springs But I am wanting to know if anyone has swapped this w/o outboarding the springs. I know the inner c has to be cut , housing trimmed and new axle shaft made ( long side).


1. what kind of money are we talking for a new shaft being made?
2.If I convert the hub back to 5x5.5 can I use the waggy stubby shafts?
3. Steering without flattop knuckles???
4.last are all the internals ie carriers the same spline count?

thanks...

I don't know if this will help or not but here goes.

I have done 2, but they were both with wide trac axles. I left the short side alone and narrowed the long side to get the correct width in order to get the spring perch on the tube. I then used everything from the ball joints out off a Dodge with 5x5.5 to get a flat top for the steering.

The stub shaft should work as long as the snap ring grove is in the same spot. If you stay 74 and newer all 44's will have 30 spline side gears. I did have all this stuff lying around so it wasn't to bad to build.

To build a SOA axle again and shafts made for it I will use a Dodge 44 with 5x5.5 since they are already a SOA and have the correct bolt pattern and I have one lying here now.
Thanks guys , this is what I was looking for ... people with experience who have actually done it.... Thanks again.....anyone else who wants to chime in is welcome..

Im thinking ill just get it( original long shaft ) cut and resplined for the cheaper and pray a hub fails before the axle...if it becomes reoccuring ill go custom....
1. what kind of money are we talking for a new shaft being made?
2.If I convert the hub back to 5x5.5 can I use the waggy stubby shafts?
3. Steering without flattop knuckles???
4.last are all the internals ie carriers the same spline count?

thanks...

#1 About $75 by Moser, cut down the original shaft and have re-splined
#2 Yes, but you'll need the small bearing spindles
#3 Won't work well at all with out doing high steer with flat tops
#4 Yes, for '74 and newer
double post deleted
We did a Waggy setup in my buddy's CJ7 a couple years back. Reused the stock Waggy steering linkage (SUA). Just shortened the drag link a bit. He's still running it that way. Works well.
thanks guys for your replys......i will use youre knowledge
So I guess the high steering with flat tops is to clear the diff cover? A tie rod flip wouldn't do it?
So I guess the high steering with flat tops is to clear the diff cover? A tie rod flip wouldn't do it?

The tie rod will already be on top. It won't be your problem with steering, it's the angle of the drag link. You use flat tops knuckles with high steer arms to get everything above the spring pack and flatten the drag link.
We did a Waggy setup in my buddy's CJ7 a couple years back. Reused the stock Waggy steering linkage (SUA). Just shortened the drag link a bit. He's still running it that way. Works well.


This is what I'd like to do when I do mine. :D
well ive recently aquired a chevy d44 3/4 ton axle.....I guess i will cut it and use the waggy shaft.....Im still trying to buy the spindles and hubs to convert it from 8 lug to 5x5.5
well ive recently aquired a chevy d44 3/4 ton axle.....I guess i will cut it and use the waggy shaft.....Im still trying to buy the spindles and hubs to convert it from 8 lug to 5x5.5

I got a set of ford hubs and rotors from autozone for cheap. I'm using a early bronco axleshaft on the long side and a waggy axleshaft on the short side. All the math I've done says this will line up the perches exactly (within a couple tenths of an inch) and be damn close to a wide trac dana 30.
alright some new info here and i need some help/ more advice.....the axle turned out to be a 74 wagoneer BOM 603462...lucky me flat tops, AND the smaller spindles...all I need is a ford Hub and rotor...but these are the least of my worries.... its all stripped , bare sittin on stands, ive measured a thousand times, made my marks but I just cant seem to cut this pig....Im worried about the whole custom axle deal.........Do yall think it would not be wise to have such a custom part ???If I brake a custom axle im hosed...but on the other hand I really dont think I will brake it??? someone just tell me to cut this thing!!!! :confused:
personally, i think it looks good at stock waggy width, so didnt even consider shortening the axle
Did that help? I've cut down 3 for myself and friends. It isn't rocket science. None of the ones that I've helped with have broken a shaft...yet, with up to 35's on Jeeps that are driven. FYI, I had 2 axles done at the same time, by Moser (cheaper that way) so I have a spare. Since you're in NC, bring it up to Richmond...I'll cut it.

Does this help?......
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a172/JohnNachman/IMG_0289.jpg
I will !!! knuckles too??
I will !!! knuckles too??

Nope, I only narrow the housings.
alright I cut the darn thing...I have all my measurements ( about 20 times over) but I want to let it sit till tommorow before the main cut. Getting the rest of the tube out of the knuckle was fun but doable..I am taking pics of the whole process and if I figure out how I will post them all..( if it works out):D
Way to go, good start :cheers2:.
ok ...final cut on band saw made....inner C welded back after hours of remeasuring....this is coming along well. Knuckles getting shipped out soon.
ok progress made New gears, locker installed and the knuckles in the mail to Nutter enterprise for machining...I have a line up for the axle being made from Dutchman.... I didnt have any u bolts laying around that would fit....where does anyone reccomend I buy from and what application did you ask for ??? Also I need new U bolt / spring pads....I think I will just make some from 3/8 plate???
Waggy spring plates will work fine, soa or sua. Get U-bolts for a Waggy.

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