I was planning on putting the rest of the car together today, but as I read threw the bently manual it says not to reuse the nylon only use once nuts. I went to napa to try and get the ones I needed. I found the ones 19mm ones but they didnt have the 22mm one that I needed. I went to MANY other lumber stores, hardware stores, called a few places and cant seem to find the size I need. Im really getting ansy now cuz its so nice out that I just wanna get this car DONE! But I also dont wanna half ass it and cost me more down the road. I got locktite, but would really wanna just get a new one. You think it might be ok to just reuse the nut that I have or wait the week and just order one online? Enclosed is a pic of the nut I need to get.
Thanks alot
Reusing them is not the end of the world, locktite them and forget them.
I just did my control arms yesterday and they used nylon nuts. They were surprisingly not on very tight. I used locktite and tightened them to what I thought was tighter than before. The nylon seemed to be still working good from the way it felt.
You can get them at your local dealership, they're relatively cheap. I wouldn't waste my time and gas to save a few pennies.
I just did my control arms yesterday and they used nylon nuts. They were surprisingly not on very tight. I used locktite and tightened them to what I thought was tighter than before. The nylon seemed to be still working good from the way it felt.
A little ot, but did you need to use a pickle fork when removing the control arms? I'm getting ready to do this myself.
A little ot, but did you need to use a pickle fork when removing the control arms? I'm getting ready to do this myself.
Yeah that was the part that required the most work. I got a workout beating that thing with my little sledgehammer. After that, the rest was cake.
Noticed you're in San Diego. If you need extra tools to do it I have a gear puller and I also made that tool from Understeer.com that presses the bushing onto the control arm. Not to mention the pickle fork.
Yeah that was the part that required the most work. I got a workout beating that thing with my little sledgehammer. After that, the rest was cake.
Noticed you're in San Diego. If you need extra tools to do it I have a gear puller and I also made that tool from Understeer.com that presses the bushing onto the control arm. Not to mention the pickle fork.
Thanks for the offer, I appreciate it. I've got the tools I need, in fact I just put together the same tool (from Understeer) yesterday afternoon. I'm debating whether I should pop for a compressor and a few air tools since I'm also going to replacing RTABs, Swaybars, Shocks, Struts, Springs, etc. over the next several weeks. I'm sure I could get by with a breaker bar and torque wrench but some air tools would speed things up nicely.
Thanks for the offer, I appreciate it. I've got the tools I need, in fact I just put together the same tool (from Understeer) yesterday afternoon. I'm debating whether I should pop for a compressor and a few air tools since I'm also going to replacing RTABs, Swaybars, Shocks, Struts, Springs, etc. over the next several weeks. I'm sure I could get by with a breaker bar and torque wrench but some air tools would speed things up nicely.
:offtopic What is this tool that understeer has? I assume this is for the removal of the RTABs? I will also be changing out my RTABs, shocks, struts, springs, etc. over the next couple weeks. I am debating on whether or not I should get some air tools as well. And if so, which ones, what sizes, etc. :dunno :(
:offtopic What is this tool that understeer has? I assume this is for the removal of the RTABs? I will also be changing out my RTABs, shocks, struts, springs, etc. over the next couple weeks. I am debating on whether or not I should get some air tools as well. And if so, which ones, what sizes, etc. :dunno :(
Yeah, sorry for hijacking the thread.
The tool is for pressing the control arm bushing back onto the control arm.
http://www.ohiomotorcycle.com/understeer/images/tech/lcab16.jpg
Get some air tools, it'll make things a lot easier. I had a helluva time doing one of my RTAB's without the right tools.
RTAB Tool (http://www.victoryproductdesign.com/tools_main.htm) (second from the last item on the page)
Lower Control Arm R&R Writeup (http://www.ohiomotorcycle.com/understeer/lcab.shtml) with instructions for building the LCAB tool.
Here's the write-up I used for Control arm removal/installation.
http://www.dol.net/~stimpee/carmrepl.htm
Differences though for my '98 M3 were the anti-roll bar isn't attached to the arm, and the outer ball joint nut is 18mm.
Okay, I've seen that RTAB tool from Victory. About that front control arm bushing, will I need to do that since I've got a 1996+ M3? I've got about 80k miles now (80231, to be exact). I purchased the GC shims and OE RTABs and hope that the install won't be too difficult but I've been told otherwise. :(
There's a good chance that your front control arm bushings are still good, but you'll need to get under the car and look them over to be sure. If the rubber's split it's time for new ones.
Nylon inserts nuts (Nylock) are for ease of assembly at the factory without the mess of Loktite. I have motorcycles that will spit off any fastener not secured due to the vibration. I've been using Loctite 242 (the blue glue) and have never had any problems. Do avoid the red as it's for permanent assemblies and needs a torch to remove fasteners secured with it. Purple for small screws, green for bearing retention, etc. One bottle of the blue stuff will last you for quite a while and is worth the investment versus buying new Nylocks or not having them on hand. JMHO.
A little ot, but did you need to use a pickle fork when removing the control arms? I'm getting ready to do this myself.
I Used a pickle fork purchased from sears when I replaced my control arms. They were not that hard to break loose. I had the control arm bushing press on at a machine shop for $10.00
I'm debating whether I should pop for a compressor and a few air tools
Yes, yes you should. Doing suspension work with a breaker bar is just silly.
Yes, yes you should. Doing suspension work with a breaker bar is just silly.
Craftsman Club discounts are still in effect this week. I just purchased this 30 gallon compressor (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00916731000) for $243. Also got an impact wrench, wratchet, hammer, hose, picke forks and a few 22mm impact sockets. Total was just under $500 for everything.
Now I'm ready to attack my control arms, bushings, rtabs and GC suspension (when it shows up). :redspot
FYI, you'll probably need to used a standard 22mm deep well socket on the strut nuts, the impact sockets are too thick to fit in to the strut bearing.
FYI, you'll probably need to used a standard 22mm deep well socket on the strut nuts, the impact sockets are too thick to fit in to the strut bearing.
Thanks for the heads-up. I guess the breaker bar might get a little use after all.
BTW - Sears has an oil fogger for air-tool lubrication through the hose. Any idea if these are worth the money? Is it safe/sufficient to oil the tools manually?
No breaker bar still, the nut isn't on with much torque, but it's a PITA trying to get it loose without the air impact. You won't blow up a regular socket with it though, just have at it.
I use the little mini in-line oilers. They work great and you only end up with oil in the tool, not the entire hose. That way if you use an air blower attachment you won't blow oil all over everything.
No breaker bar still, the nut isn't on with much torque, but it's a PITA trying to get it loose without the air impact. You won't blow up a regular socket with it though, just have at it.
I use the little mini in-line oilers. They work great and you only end up with oil in the tool, not the entire hose. That way if you use an air blower attachment you won't blow oil all over everything.
Cool - sounds like I'm set then. I think I saw the mini oiler; that's the small $10 version? It's got a small screw that caps the oil resevoir? Do you attach it directly to the tool or with a quick-release?
That'd be the one. I have one attached to each of my air tools along with a one foot whip cable, then a quick disconnect on the other end of the whip. Oh, that little screw is a joke, I've never been able to fill one with that tiny hole. I usually wrap a paper towel around the base of the oiler, unscrew the plastic body, dump in the oil and screw the body back together before it pours out the bottom. Is it a PITA? Yup, but you only have to refill them after a ton of use :)
That'd be the one. I have one attached to each of my air tools along with a one foot whip cable, then a quick disconnect on the other end of the whip. Oh, that little screw is a joke, I've never been able to fill one with that tiny hole. I usually wrap a paper towel around the base of the oiler, unscrew the plastic body, dump in the oil and screw the body back together before it pours out the bottom. Is it a PITA? Yup, but you only have to refill them after a ton of use :)
Sounds good, thanks for the tip!
regarding inline oilers: I don't think they are worth the money. Just put a few drops of oil in the tool before you use it & your good to go. If you use the inline oilers, it will coat the inside of the air line with oil and you can't use that air line to spray paint. I've also found that an inline filter with an intergrated water drain is quite handy.
Would have to agree with the above post. I use a lot of pneumatic tools on the job and this is what I do also. I put 3 drops right in the tool before I hook it up so no oil is wasted by oiling the entire line. I then shoot the exhaust into a waste can to rid the excess not absorbed by the vanes and bearings before I use it. This is largely a matter of personal preference but the point about not being able to use the same line for painting is a good one.
Which is why I recommended using the mini-inline oilers that attach right at the tool, they work great and don't oil down the entire line.
Have you had any problems/issues with the in-line oilers leaking out the bottom? I had one empty out on me while hanging upright; I don't know if it's defective, if something came loose or if they're just prone to leak.
Never had that happen, I'd check the o-rings and make sure it's sealed up.
Never had that happen, I'd check the o-rings and make sure it's sealed up.
Will do - thanks.
Which is why I recommended using the mini-inline oilers that attach right at the tool, they work great and don't oil down the entire line.
True - either will work just as well, but my way is cheaper :D
i did RTAB's, front LCA's, shocks/springs front and rear, and changed differential without air tools. air tools aren't needed if you have big ass vice grips, helpful roommates, and plenty of beer to keep them from realizing that they are dirty and working on my car at 10pm on a friday night.
